The meteorological course of the year 2008 is similar to the 2007 one, they both are characterized by a rainless summer, except for those quite strong precipitations we had in the first week of June.
If we analyse the years from 1990 to 2000, we had more or less drought vintage years alternating with more or less rainy years, but all considered the range was acceptable from an agronomic point of view. If we analyse the years from 2000 to 2007, the tendency has resolutely mooved towards seasonal courses characterized by drought, becoming extreme in 2003, but especially in 2007-2008. In 2008 we had some rainfalls in spring and most of all in the first week of June, during the vegetative development. This rain has been producing some general health-problems. Anyway our wineyards were just slightly damaged because of their good exposure to the sea (25 km distance from the adriatic sea), they benefited from the maritime breezes. From the beginning of June until the end of October we did not see one drop of water. Further, during the summer we had a insistent sirocco blowing, which tried vineyards and men sorely.
The only solution to save the fruit, vineyards and quality was to reduce the production, assisting the greenery and through different thinning operations. Since a couple of years we become used to decreasing productions: this year we had 20% less in comparison with the average values (a little better compared to 2007, where we had a reduction of 30%).
Also this year like in 2007, when I got back from the VINITALY show, the plants had started their sprouting, 1 month in advance compared to the usual average.
The advanced awakening of the greenery compelled us to anticipate the harvest like last year. Nevertheless it seems that the plants adapt themselves to the changing seasons, breathing more slowly, they try to re-establish the normal vintage times.
VINE IS A WONDERFUL PLANT
The elements we analised above make us “shudder” (so to speak…) Nevertheless if vine is cultivated and grown with care and most of all if we try to understand this plant, “she” never disappoints the viticulturist. Every vintage we are given something extraordinary and unique. 2008 gave us wines that distinguish themselves for character, personality and grit.
Red wines have particularly benefited from the seasonal course; SANGIOVESE, CABERNET SAUVIGNON and CAGNINA are thickly coloured, dense, with well expressed body and tannins. White wines too reflect the 2008 seasonal course: the grape’s sugar content was very high and the phenolic ripening was complete. ALBANA, PAGADEBIT and CHARDONNAY are wide, bulky and warm and have a great tasty impact. Their aromatic characteristics are completely expressed. After years of Euphoria and Drunkenness in the world of wine, where various natured characters catapulted themselves (wealthy entrepreneurs, hobbyists looking for agricultural shiver, and young people full of hopes) the panorama has become more foggy, diffusing a certain depression. My 25 vintage experiences learnt me to drink with moderation, keeping always a low profile, near the earth. This requests patience, tenacity and realism. I think we are going back to REALITY and reality is POSITIV, even if she doesn’t always have pleasant aspects. We are producing quality wines from 1965 which have an excellent relation with their prices. We are conscious about the fact that nothing can be improvised or invented. With every vintage we can learn something.